Let's go to Sydney (Top Things to Do in Sydney: Your Ultimate Travel Guide)

The Opera Bar

The Rocks Night Market

The Rocks, Sydney's oldest Neighborhood

The next morning, we head to Bondi Beach, eager to feel the sand between our toes and the Pacific breeze on our faces. The beach is as beautiful as we remember, a crescent of golden sand framed by sandstone cliffs. After a refreshing swim and a walk along the famous Bondi to Bronte coastal path, we're ready for brunch.

We make our way to Bills, the beloved cafe chain started by celebrity chef Bill Granger. The place is buzzing with locals and tourists alike, all drawn by the promise of what many consider the best breakfast in Sydney. We manage to snag a table and eagerly peruse the menu.

I can't resist ordering the ricotta hotcakes with honeycomb butter, a dish that has become synonymous with Bills. When they arrive, they're everything I remembered and more - fluffy, golden pancakes topped with a generous slab of honeycomb butter that melts enticingly into the warm cakes. A scattering of sliced banana and a drizzle of maple syrup complete the dish. It's sweet, indulgent, and utterly delicious.

Heidi opts for the sweet corn fritters with roast tomato, spinach, and bacon. The fritters are crispy on the outside, with a tender, corn-studded interior. The smoky bacon and juicy roasted tomatoes provide the perfect savory counterpoint. We wash it all down with flat whites, the Australian coffee that we've sorely missed in Denmark.

After brunch, we decide to head to Darling Harbour. This vibrant precinct has changed dramatically since we left, with new developments sprouting up alongside familiar landmarks. We take a moment to visit the Australian National Maritime Museum, its distinctive roof reminiscent of billowing sails.

For dinner, we've made reservations at Quay, Peter Gilmore's three-hatted restaurant overlooking the harbor. As we're seated at our table, with panoramic views of the Opera House and Harbor Bridge, we know we're in for a truly special experience.

We opt for the ten-course tasting menu, eager to sample Gilmore's innovative cuisine. The meal begins with a series of intricate snacks, including a delicate tart of mud crab and brown butter and a miniature empanada filled with fermented mushroom and truffle. Each bite is a revelation, showcasing Australian ingredients in new and exciting ways.

The parade of dishes that follows is nothing short of extraordinary. A standout is the "smoked eel cream, sea urchin, fanfish, nasturtium" - a harmonious blend of land and sea that captures the essence of Australian coastal cuisine. The famous "white coral" dessert, a delicate confection of aerated white chocolate that truly resembles a piece of coral, provides a fittingly spectacular end to the meal.

As we sip on glasses of Hunter Valley Semillon, we reflect on how much the Sydney dining scene has evolved. When we first arrived in Australia, such refined and globally influenced cuisine was rare. Now, Sydney stands proudly on the world stage, its restaurants rivaling those of any major culinary capital.

Bill's Cafe

Sweet Corn Fritters with roast tomato, spinach, and bacon

Ricotta Hotcakes with honeycomb butter

The next day, we decide to explore some of Sydney's markets. Our first stop is the Carriageworks Farmers Market, held every Saturday in the trendy inner-city suburb of Eveleigh. The market is a feast for the senses, with stalls overflowing with fresh produce, artisanal bread, and gourmet treats.

We sample our way through the market, trying everything from handmade pasta to small-batch kombucha. For lunch, we can't go past the Billy Kwong stand, run by celebrated chef Kylie Kwong. Her steam buns filled with red-braised, caramelized pork belly are a perfect fusion of Chinese and Australian flavors, the soft bun contrasting beautifully with the rich, sticky meat.

In the afternoon, we make our way to the Sydney Fish Market. Although we're not cooking during our stay, we can't resist wandering through the bustling halls, marveling at the incredible variety of seafood on offer. From enormous lobsters to glistening whole salmon, it's a reminder of the bounty of the Australian waters.

For a quick snack, we stop at one of the market's sushi stalls. The sashimi platter we share is a rainbow of colors and textures - buttery salmon, firm tuna, delicate kingfish, and sweet scampi. Each piece is impeccably fresh, a testament to the quality of Australian seafood.

As evening approaches, we head to the Centrepoint Tower (now known as Sydney Tower) for dinner at 360 Bar and Dining. The revolving restaurant offers unparalleled views of the city, and as we slowly rotate, we watch Sydney transform from day to night.

We start with a dozen Sydney rock oysters, this time dressed with a finger lime mignonette. The burst of citrusy caviar-like pearls from the finger lime perfectly complements the briny oysters. For mains, I choose the rack of Junee lamb with Jerusalem artichoke, black garlic, and saltbush. The lamb is cooked to perfection, pink and juicy, with a herb crust that adds a delightful crunch. Heidi opts for the Murray cod with Warragul greens, macadamia, and lemon myrtle butter sauce. The fish is flaky and moist, its delicate flavor enhanced by the nutty macadamias and the aromatic lemon myrtle.

As we dine, we watch the city lights twinkle below us, feeling a mix of nostalgia and excitement. Sydney has changed in many ways since we left, but its essence - the blend of natural beauty, multicultural influences, and innovative spirit - remains the same.

Sydney Tower Night views

Carriageworks Farmers Market

Seafood Platter at Sydney Tower

The next morning in Sydney dawns bright and clear. We decide to spend it exploring some of the city's diverse neighborhoods. We start in Newtown, a bohemian inner-city suburb known for its eclectic shops, street art, and fantastic cafes.

For breakfast, we stop at Brewtown Newtown, a hip cafe housed in a converted warehouse. I order the green bowl - a vibrant mix of kale, broccolini, avocado, quinoa, poached eggs, and dukkah. It's a far cry from the heavy fry-ups that were common when we first moved to Australia, a reflection of how the country's breakfast culture has evolved. Heidi chooses the Brewtown roll, a hearty sandwich filled with bacon, fried egg, rocket, tomato relish, and aioli. We accompany our meals with perfectly crafted flat whites, savoring every sip.

After breakfast, we wander down King Street, Newtown's main thoroughfare. The street is a riot of color and activity, with vintage clothing stores, record shops, and bookstores nestled alongside trendy bars and eateries. We can't resist popping into T Totaler, a specialty tea store, where we stock up on unique Australian tea blends to take back to Denmark.

For lunch, we head to Chinatown, eager to sample some of the authentic Asian cuisine that we've missed. We choose to eat at Din Tai Fung, the famous Taiwanese chain known for its exquisite xiao long bao (soup dumplings). As we watch the chefs meticulously crafting each dumpling through the glass-walled kitchen, we're reminded of the precision and care that goes into great food, regardless of its origin.

When our bamboo steamers arrive, we carefully lift each delicate dumpling with our chopsticks, making sure not to pierce the thin skin. As we bite into them, the rich pork broth floods our mouths, followed by the tender meat filling. We also order a plate of gailan (Chinese broccoli) with garlic for some green crunch, and finish with a serve of mango pudding, its silky texture and tropical flavor a perfect end to the meal.

King Street, Newtown's main thoroughfare

Courthouse Hotel Newtown

Brewtown Newtown

In the afternoon, we take a ferry to Manly, enjoying the spectacular harbor views along the way. The beach suburb feels worlds away from the city, with its relaxed vibe and stunning coastline. We take a leisurely walk along the Manly to Shelly Beach track, stopping to watch surfers catch waves and children build sandcastles.

For our final dinner in Sydney, we've chosen Ester, a small but acclaimed restaurant in Chippendale. The restaurant's wood-fired oven is at the heart of its cuisine, imparting a subtle smokiness to many of the dishes.

We start with the wood-fired oysters with horseradish emulsion. The light cooking and the kick of horseradish bring out new dimensions in the oysters' flavor. Next comes the cauliflower with almond sauce and mint, a vegetable dish elevated to star status through careful cooking and thoughtful flavors.

The standout dish is the wood-roasted Holmbrae chicken with garlic and bread sauce. The chicken is succulent and flavorful, its skin crispy and infused with smoke. The bread sauce, a nod to old-school British cuisine, is given new life here, creamy and garlicky.

We finish with the three milk cake with strawberry and shiso. It's a beautiful balance of sweet and tart, creamy and fresh, a fitting end to our culinary journey through Sydney.

We decided to extend our trip with a two-day journey south of Sydney. Thanks to Expedia, we were able to easily add a car rental to our existing itinerary without breaking the bank. Once again, we were impressed by how Expedia makes budget-friendly travel so accessible, whether you're planning cheap travel to Sydney or exploring the Australian coast.

Sydney to Batemans Bay

We set out early in the morning, leaving the bustling city behind as we headed south along the scenic coastal road. Our first stop was the Royal National Park, just an hour south of Sydney. We stretched our legs with a short walk to the famous Wedding Cake Rock, marvelling at the stark white sandstone formation against the deep blue of the Pacific Ocean.

Continuing south, we reached Wollongong in time for a late breakfast. We stopped at Diggies North Beach, a charming café right on the beachfront. I ordered the green goddess bowl, a vibrant mix of kale, avocado, broccolini, and poached eggs, while Heidi opted for the classic avocado smash with feta and dukkah. As we sipped our flat whites and watched the waves crash on the shore, we felt the last of our city stress melt away.

Our journey then took us through Kiama, where we couldn't resist stopping to see the famous Kiama Blowhole. We were lucky enough to catch it in action, water spraying dramatically into the air, much to the delight of gathered tourists.

Lunch found us in the charming town of Berry. We'd heard great things about the Famous Berry Donut Van and decided it was worth the indulgence. The hot, cinnamon-sugar coated donuts lived up to their reputation – crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and utterly irresistible. To balance out the sweetness, we also picked up some artisanal cheeses and fresh bread from the Berry Sourdough Cafe for a picnic later.

As we continued south, the landscape became increasingly rural, with rolling hills and glimpses of the ocean. We made a brief stop in Nowra to stretch our legs and explore the charming town center before pushing on to our final destination for the day: Batemans Bay.

We arrived in Batemans Bay just as the sun was setting, casting a golden glow over the Clyde River estuary. After checking into our accommodation (booked through Expedia, of course), we headed to JJ's at the Marina for dinner. The restaurant's deck offered stunning views of the bay, the perfect backdrop for our meal.

We started with a dozen locally harvested Clyde River oysters, served natural with just a squeeze of lemon. The oysters were plump and briny, with a clean, crisp flavor that spoke of the pristine waters they came from. For mains, I couldn't go past the fish of the day – a perfectly grilled fillet of local snapper served with roasted vegetables and a lemon butter sauce. Heidi chose the seafood linguine, loaded with prawns, mussels, and calamari in a light white wine and garlic sauce. We paired our meal with a crisp Riesling from the nearby Canberra wine region, a preview of our upcoming visit to the capital.

As we lingered over our wine, watching the last light fade from the sky, we reflected on how much we'd seen and experienced in just one day of driving. The South Coast of New South Wales truly is a gem, we agreed, one that we'd been missing out on during our years living in Australia.

Sea Cliff Bridge

Fresh fish from the boat to the table

Fish'n Chips

Batemans Bay to Canberra via Bega

We rose early the next day, eager to explore more of the coast before turning inland towards Canberra. Our first stop was the Eurobodalla Regional Botanic Gardens, just south of Batemans Bay. We enjoyed a peaceful morning walk through the gardens, admiring the diverse native plants and keeping an eye out for local wildlife.

Back on the road, we continued south to Narooma, a picturesque coastal town known for its crystal-clear waters and abundant marine life. We took a short detour to Bar Rock Lookout, where we were treated to panoramic views of the coastline and the famous Australia Rock – a natural rock formation with a hole roughly in the shape of Australia.

For lunch, we stopped at the Quarterdeck, a tiki-style waterfront restaurant in Narooma. We shared a platter of grilled local seafood – including prawns, calamari, and fish – along with a fresh salad and some crispy chips. The casual vibe and stunning views made for a perfect midday break.

Our next major stop was Bega, a town synonymous with cheese for most Australians. We couldn't pass through without visiting the Bega Cheese Heritage Centre. The center offers a fascinating look at the history of dairy farming in the region, as well as the chance to taste a variety of Bega cheeses. We sampled everything from sharp vintage cheddar to creamy brie, picking up a selection to take back to Denmark with us.

From Bega, we turned inland, bidding farewell to the coast as we made our way towards Canberra. The landscape changed dramatically as we drove, from coastal plains to rolling hills and eventually to the drier, more rugged terrain of the Capital Territory.

We arrived in Canberra in the late afternoon, a flood of memories washing over us as we drove into the city we called home for 14 years. So much had changed, yet so much remained familiar. We checked into our hotel in the city center, another great find through Expedia, before heading out to revisit some of our old haunts.

Our first stop was the shores of Lake Burley Griffin, the heart of Canberra. We took a leisurely walk around the lake, admiring the iconic buildings that define Canberra's skyline – Parliament House, the National Library, and the towering jet of the Captain Cook Memorial Fountain.

For dinner, we chose one of our old favorites: Aubergine, a two-hatted restaurant in the suburb of Griffith. The restaurant had evolved since our last visit, but its commitment to showcasing local, seasonal produce remained unchanged.

We opted for the chef's tasting menu, eager to experience the best the kitchen had to offer. The meal began with a series of elegant snacks, including a delicate tartlet of smoked eel and horseradish, and a crisp chicken skin topped with chicken liver parfait and Davidson plum.

The parade of dishes that followed was a testament to the creativity of the kitchen and the quality of Canberra region produce. Standouts included a dish of local yabby tail with kohlrabi, finger lime, and oyster emulsion, and a perfectly cooked piece of Bunderra pork with Jerusalem artichoke and black garlic.

The wine pairing, featuring wines from the nearby Canberra District wine region, was inspired. We were particularly impressed by a textural Clonakilla Viognier and a complex Collector Reserve Shiraz.

As we savored our dessert – a sophisticated take on a lamington with chocolate, coconut, and raspberry – we marveled at how far Canberra's food scene had come. Once considered a culinary backwater, the city now boasted restaurants that could hold their own against the best in Sydney or Melbourne.

The next morning, our final day in Australia, we woke early to make the most of our time in Canberra. We started with breakfast at The Cupping Room, a café opened by world champion barista Sasa Sestic during our time in Canberra. The coffee, as expected, was exceptional – a complex, fruit-forward Ethiopian single origin that reminded us why Australian coffee culture is celebrated worldwide. I enjoyed the wild mushrooms on sourdough with poached eggs and truffle oil, while Heidi opted for the bacon and egg roll with homemade BBQ sauce.

After breakfast, we took a nostalgic drive around the city, passing by our old house and the schools our children attended. We then headed up to Mount Ainslie Lookout, where we took in the sweeping views of the city laid out below us. The vista of Anzac Parade leading up to the War Memorial, with Parliament House in the distance, was as stunning as we remembered.

For lunch, we couldn't resist one last visit to The Fyshwick Markets. This bustling fresh food market was a Saturday morning tradition during our years in Canberra. We gathered supplies for a picnic – crusty bread from Knead Patisserie, a selection of cured meats from Jordo's Chop Shop, and some fresh local fruit and vegetables.

We took our picnic to the Australian National Botanic Gardens, finding a quiet spot with a view of Black Mountain. As we ate, we reminisced about our years in Canberra – the friends we'd made, the experiences we'd had, and how the city had shaped our Australian journey.

All too soon, it was time to begin the drive back to Sydney for our flight home to Copenhagen. The four-and-a-half-hour journey gave us time to reflect on our whirlwind tour of the South Coast and our brief return to Canberra. We felt a mix of emotions – nostalgia for the life we'd left behind, excitement to return to our new home in Denmark, and gratitude for the opportunity to revisit the places and flavors that had meant so much to us.

Our journey had taken us from the bustling streets of Sydney to the serene beaches of the South Coast, from the rolling hills of the Bega Valley to the planned perfection of Canberra. We'd rediscovered old favorites and found new gems, indulging in everything from simple meat pies to elaborate degustation menus.

As our plane took off, offering us one last glimpse of the Sydney Harbor Bridge and Opera House, we felt profoundly grateful. Grateful for the years we'd spent in this beautiful country, for the opportunity to return and explore it anew, and for the incredible food experiences we'd had along the way.

Australia will always hold a special place in our hearts, we agreed. It's a place that had welcomed us as immigrants, became our home for decades, and now, even from afar, continues to inspire and delight us. As we settled in for the long flight back to Denmark, we were already looking forward to our next Australian culinary adventure. After all, with Expedia making travel so accessible, we knew it wouldn't be long before we returned to the land down under, ready to create more delicious memories.

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