10 Things to Do During Fastelavn in Copenhagen

An Aussie's Guide to Danish Carnival

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Peter

2/6/20255 min read

10 Things to Do During Fastelavn in Copenhagen:

An Aussie's Guide to Danish Carnival

G'day mates! When I first moved to Copenhagen six years ago, I thought I'd seen it all in terms of cultural differences. I mean, I'd already wrapped my head around eating pickled herring for breakfast and the fact that Danish summer means a balmy 20°C. But then came Fastelavn, and boy, was I in for a treat – literally and figuratively.

For my fellow confused expatriates, Fastelavn is essentially the Danish version of carnival, falling seven weeks before Easter. Think of it as Halloween meets Mardi Gras, but with a distinctly Scandinavian twist that involves hitting a barrel with a stick and eating enough cream-filled buns to make your dentist weep. As someone who grew up with backyard barbies and Christmas on the beach, I'm here to guide you through this wonderfully weird Danish tradition.

1. Embrace Your Inner Cat King/Queen

The first thing you need to know about Fastelavn is its most famous tradition: "slå katten af tønden" (hitting the cat out of the barrel). Before you call PETA, let me explain – no actual cats are involved. These days, it's just a wooden barrel filled with candy. Historically, they did put a live black cat in the barrel and beat it to death to ward off evil spirits (yikes!), but thankfully, modern Danes stick to the much more humane candy-only version.

The person who knocks down the bottom of the barrel becomes 'Kattedronning' (Cat Queen), while the one who breaks the last piece is crowned 'Kattekonge' (Cat King). Coming from a country where our biggest claim to fame is throwing shrimp on the barbie, I found this barrel-bashing business absolutely fascinating. My first year, I threw my back out trying to look cool in front of my Danish colleagues. Pro tip: There's no elegant way to swing a wooden stick while wearing a Superman costume.

2. Master the Art of Fastelavnsboller

If there's one thing Danes take seriously during Fastelavn, it's their fastelavnsboller – cream-filled buns that make Tim Tams look like amateur hour. Every bakery in Copenhagen competes to create the most Instagram-worthy version of these heavenly pastries. My local baker's creation this year involved chocolate, marzipan, whipped cream, and what I'm pretty sure was edible glitter. I've gained approximately 3 kilos just writing this paragraph.

3. Costume Up, Mate!

Unlike Halloween, where the goal is to be as scary as possible, Fastelavn costumes can be anything. Kids (and surprisingly many adults) dress up as superheroes, animals, or their favorite cartoon characters. My first Fastelavn, I showed up as a kangaroo, because, you know, Australian stereotypes. The Danes found it hilarious, though I suspect they were laughing at me rather than with me.

4. Learn the History (To Impress Your Danish Friends)

Here's where it gets interesting. Fastelavn actually has Catholic roots, marking the start of Lent. The word comes from 'fasten-aften' or 'fast evening,' referring to the last feast before the fasting period. When I dropped this knowledge bomb at a dinner party, my Danish friends were genuinely impressed – until I tried to pronounce 'fastelavnsris' and they nearly choked on their snaps.

5. Get Your Fastelavnsris On

Speaking of fastelavnsris, these decorated birch branches are another crucial part of the celebration. Traditionally, parents would wake their children by gently hitting them with these branches (again, what is it with Danes and hitting things?). Today, they're mostly decorative items filled with candy and colorful paper cuts. I once tried to explain this tradition to my family back in Australia. They're now convinced I've joined some sort of Nordic cult.

6. Join a Community Celebration

Every neighborhood in Copenhagen hosts its own Fastelavn event. My local community center goes all out with face painting, barrel-bashing competitions, and enough sugar to fuel a small army. The first time I attended, I was touched by how the elderly residents would sit by the windows, waving at the costume-clad children below. It's like a big, weird, wonderful family gathering.

7. Survive the Sugar Rush

Between the fastelavnsboller, the barrel candy, and the various other sweets that somehow materialize during this period, Fastelavn is basically a dentist's nightmare. I've learned to pace myself after the Great Sugar Crash of 2020, where I fell asleep during an important meeting because I'd consumed my body weight in cream buns.

8. Master the Art of Hot Chocolate

While not officially a Fastelavn tradition, hot chocolate (or varm kakao) is a crucial part of any Danish celebration. During Fastelavn, it becomes a necessity – partly because it's usually freezing cold, and partly because you need something to wash down all those fastelavnsboller. The Danes make their hot chocolate rich and thick enough to stand a spoon in. It's basically liquid hygge.

9. Learn the Songs

There are several traditional Fastelavn songs, most of which involve asking for buns or money. My personal favorite is "Boller op, boller ned, boller i min mave" (Buns up, buns down, buns in my stomach). It's short, simple, and perfectly describes my relationship with fastelavnsboller. Warning: These songs will get stuck in your head until midsummer.

10. Embrace the Chaos

The beauty of Fastelavn is its wonderful mix of traditions that don't quite make sense but are cherished nonetheless. Where else can you dress up as Spider-Man in February, hit a barrel full of candy, eat your weight in cream buns, and call it a cultural experience?

After six years in Copenhagen, I've come to love this quirky celebration. It's the perfect antidote to the dark Danish winter, bringing color, sugar, and community spirit to the coldest time of the year. Plus, it's given me endless material for my "you won't believe what the Danes do" stories when I visit home.

So if you find yourself in Copenhagen during Fastelavn, grab a stick, don a costume, and join in the barrel-bashing fun. Just remember to pace yourself with the fastelavnsboller – trust me on this one.

And if anyone asks, yes, we absolutely have similar traditions in Australia. We just use kangaroos instead of barrels, and Vegemite instead of cream buns. (This is a lie, but it's fun to watch the Danes try to figure out if I'm joking.)

Happy Fastelavn, mates! Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to go practice my barrel-hitting technique. This year, the Cat Crown will be mine!